Alaska winter trip: Northern Lights and much more

Impian Monalisa-Last winter, my 10-year-old son and I headed to a destination that had friends and family wondering if we'd lost our minds.

We went to Fairbanks. In February.

We hoped to see the Northern Lights, though we knew there were no guarantees. If you stay three nights in the area, locals say you have a 75 percent likelihood of witnessing the phenomenon, but cloud cover or snow falling can ruin your chances. We got lucky, and saw them twice on a three-night stay.

The Aurora Borealis spins above the Talkeetna Range and a hay field on Farm Loop Road near Palmer, Alaska. (AP/Bob Martinson, File)

But while we went to see the aurora borealis, we ended up doing so much more. In Fairbanks, we visited an ice park, saw ice sculptures and toured the Museum of the North. At Chena Hot Springs Resort, about 60 miles from Fairbanks, we went dogsledding and snowmobiling, soaked in an outdoor hot tub surrounded by snow, and visited an ice museum and geothermal energy plant.

We don't get much snow in New York City, where we live, so the trip also cured our snow deficit. My son Nathaniel loved rolling down snowy hills and climbing up snowpacked river banks.

We'd been to Alaska once before - like most tourists, in the summer. We fell in love with the landscape and wildlife, and became obsessed with everything about the state. We read books, talked endlessly about our trip (him in school, me at work), showed off our photos, and quizzed anyone we met who'd been there.

Only about 250,000 tourists venture to Alaska between October and April (compared to some 1.7 million summer visitors). But most winter tourists are like us - 75 percent are making their second trip to the state, according to the most recent data from the Alaska Visitor Statistics Program.

My husband and teenage son declined to accompany us, although they had been on the summer trip. Husband said he had to work; teenager headed to a warm beach with a friend's family. I wondered if they were right to take a pass when I checked the weather in Fairbanks a few weeks before our trip: Temperatures in early February had set record lows in the minus 40s and 50s.

We bought special gloves, socks and face protectors, borrowed ski outerwear from relatives, and hoped it would warm up. It did, with temps in the 20s and 30s - above zero. We were fine outside for hours at a time.

We also experienced an unexpected cultural immersion. Charter flights from Tokyo bring thousands of Japanese visitors to Alaska each winter. Seeing the Northern Lights is "on their life list," explained Chena spokeswoman Denise Ferree. It's also part of Japanese culture's "traditional reverence for and appreciation of the beauty of nature," said Colin Lawrence, director of tourism for the Fairbanks Convention and Visitors Bureau.

Watching these Japanese visitors waiting outside in the snow, sometimes for hours, all bundled up, for a once-in-a-lifetime chance to see the aurora borealis, was inspiring. Like a lot of Americans, patience is not my strong suit. But my son and I shared the Japanese tourists' exclamations of joy when we spotted the Northern Lights.

If all this gets you dreaming of your own magical visit to Alaska this winter, the Fairbanks Convention and Visitors Bureau can help: http://www.explorefairbanks.com , 800-327-5774. Meanwhile, here are highlights and practical information from our trip.

DAY 1: We landed in Fairbanks late afternoon, headed to our hotel for dinner and a nap (Alaska is four hours earlier than East Coast time). We set an alarm to be up for a 10 p.m. pickup to see the Northern Lights at the Aurora Borealis Lodge. Lodge owner Mok Kumagai picks guests up at hotels downtown, and takes them away from city lights to see the aurora. We stayed at his home until 2 a.m., napping in his loft before being awakened by exclamations of "Aurora!" from his Japanese guests when the light show began. Details at http://www.auroracabin.com or 907-389-2812, $75 a person; overnight accommodations, $169-$224.

DAYS 2 AND 3: We previewed Fairbanks' Ice Park, where the World Ice Art Championships take place. The park has slides and other playground structures made from ice, along with larger-than-life ice sculptures. Open Feb. 24-March 22, 10 a.m.-10 p.m.; http://www.icealaska.com . The sculptors do their chiseling and carving Feb. 24-26, and March 1-6, with the creations finished and lighted on Feb. 27 and March 7.

Then we headed to Chena Hot Springs Resort, http://www.chenahotsprings.com or 907-451-8104 (nightly room rates start at $179 a night; packages available; van transportation from Fairbanks can be arranged 72 hours in advance for a fee). Our visit included dogsledding through snowy woods; visiting and playing with sled dogs and their puppies; our first-ever snowmobiling adventure, with a guide; dips in the hot tubs and hot lake, where the water is 165 degrees (children are not allowed in the lake but they can try the outdoor tub and indoor pool); and tours of the resort's Aurora Ice Museum and geothermal energy plant. The resort also offers horsedrawn sleigh rides, flightseeing and therapeutic massage.

Steam rises from Hot Springs Rock Lake surrounded by the snowy landscape at Chena Hot Springs Resort in Alaska. (AP/Beth J Harpaz)

Chena Hot Springs, which is open year-round, was discovered in 1905 by surveyors and enjoyed by goldminers of the era. Today the resort uses the springs' naturally hot water to generate all its own energy; indoor temperatures are toasty, and my son loved learning about the science behind the power plant on a tour.

The ice museum, from the outside, looks like a giant igloo. Inside are whimsical ice carvings of animals, chess pieces, and furniture. I had an "appletini" drink in a glass carved from ice, at a bar carved from ice. Colored lights infuse the place with psychedelic hues.

A few tips: You can rent parkas and boots from the resort if you lack cold weather gear. The resort is literally off the grid; there is no town nearby, so you'll be eating all your meals there. We found the food good and reasonably priced; yummy salads are made from lettuce grown onsite in a geothermally heated greenhouse.

The water from the springs is sulphuric, and some people don't like the odor. It didn't bother us; we were too taken with the novelty of sitting outside in our bathing suits, surrounded by snow. Internet service is only available in the activities center, so you won't be checking your e-mail every minute. We brought a laptop, DVDs and books, but we were so tired staying up to look for the Northern Lights that most of our downtime was spent napping.

DAY 4: Back in Fairbanks, my son had a blast climbing up and down the snowy banks of the Chena River. Then we headed out to the Museum of the North, at the University of Alaska campus (a $15-$20 taxi ride from downtown, or take the Airlink shuttle from the airport). My son was fascinated by displays on Alaska's animals, from prehistoric creatures like mammoths and mastodons, to bears and wolves. I liked the history of the goldminers, the frontier era and Native culture. Don't miss the museum's unique sound-light installation, called "The Place Where You Go To Listen." Computers create sounds and images using real-time data from seismic stations and magnetometers that track earthquake and auroral activity, and the colors and sounds in the installation change with the position of the sun. Museum winter hours: Monday-Saturday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. (holiday schedule, Dec. 26-Jan. 4, 11 a.m.-5 p.m. daily), admission $10, http://www.uaf.edu/museum/ .

Fairbanks' many restaurants include 25 offering Asian cuisine. We ate at Lemongrass, one of 10 local Thai eateries, before heading back east.

There was no snow when we got home; we put away our ski gloves. And the trip didn't cure our Alaska obsession. We're still reading books about Alaska (my son surprised his fifth-grade teacher by tackling Jack London), and we're dreaming of our next trip - to the Arctic Circle. /Beth J. Harpaz

Integrated spiritual tourism at Mt. Selok, Srandil

Impian Monalisa-A view of Cilacap’s coastline from the top of Mount Selok. (JP/Agus Maryono)

Mount Selok in Karangbenda village, Adipala district, Cilacap regency, Central Java, comprises more then 126 hectares of land and rises 150 meters above sea level.

Located along Cilacap's coastal area, the mountain is a perfect lookout spot to view the waves of the South Sea breaking on the foothills below.

About one kilometer to the east of Mount Selok, stands Mount Srandil. Although the two mountains are relatively of equal height, Mount Srandil comprises less than half the land area that Mount Selok does.

In the past, mounts Selok and Srandil make one tour package that blends the amazing beauty of the mountains and the sea. In addition, these two mountains are also very popular as places for Kejawen (Javanese) spiritual pilgrimage.

Unfortunately, the two mountains are now barren as most of the large trees that were once found there were felled illegally between 1999 and 2000. The mountain areas are no longer green and cool and only a number of caves and graves that the pilgrims hold sacred are left.

Mounts Selok and Srandil have been closed as tourist sites since the year 2000. The Jakarta Post, accompanied by a staff member of the local district government, toured the area to observe the many tourist facilities that had been damaged and neglected.

A number of bathrooms and a prayer house in the location were found in disrepair and looked like ghost houses. The paved road crossing Mount Selok area was also in a very condition.

"Given the present condition, we are trying to change the tourist concept at Mount Selok and Mount Srandil so that the two mountains will be the centers of integrated spiritual tourism," Budi Santoso, the district head of Adipala, told the Post recently.

According to Budi, the local administration could easily develop Islamic, Buddhist, Hindu and Kejawen spiritual tourism at these two mountains.

"Kejawen spiritual tourism has been very popular for a long time. Islamic and Buddhist spiritual tourism is less popular but the potential for such development is great," Budi said.

At the top of Mount Selok, he added, was the grave of Kyai Somalangu, one of the disciples of Prince Diponegoro. This, he said, made it an appropriate place for a Islamic spiritual tour site.

He said former president "Gus Dur" once went on a pilgrimage to the grave. "This is evidence that Kyai Somalangu was not just anybody," Budi said.

Buddhists, he added, could visit Padepokan Biksu, or a Buddhist monk dormitory, which is also located at the top of Mount Selok, about 2 km from the grave of Kyai Somalangu.

Built two years ago, the Buddhist dormitory is frequently visited by people from Cilacap and other surrounding areas.

The gateway leading to Padepokan Jambe 7 at Gunung Selok was inaugurated by former president Soeharto in 1979. It was here Soeharto went to meditate. (JP/Agus Maryono)

At the gateway to Mount Selok, a temple can be found where followers of Hinduism can perform their religious services.

"This mountain area is a center for Kejawan spiritual tourism. The most popular site is Padepokan Jambe 7, which was built by former president Soeharto in 1979. Soeharto often went to meditate there," said Budi.

There was also Padepokan Jambe 5, he said, which Mayangsari, a famous singer from Purwokerto, was also known to visit for meditation.

Since the demise of president Soeharto, Padepokan Jambe 7 had been neglected, Budi said, adding the local administration wished to once again open it up to the public.

Besides Padepokan Jambe 5 and Jambe 7, there are also caves that are popular among pilgrims, especially on certain days such as Kliwon Friday and Kliwon Tuesday, and in the month of Syura on the Javanese calendar.

These caves, or goa, include Goa Rahayu, Goa Naga Raja, Goa Bolong, Goa Paku Waja, Goa Putih, Goa Grujugan, Goa Tikus, Goa Lawa and Goa Kaendran.

Meanwhile, the grave of Kyai Somalangu, which is located on a former Japanese fort, is usually visited by people from Kebumen, Central Java.

The introduction of spiritual tourism in Mount Selok, Budi said, could restore its position as an alternative tourist site.

Karangbenda village head Umar Said, who is also a community elder in the Mount Selok area, confirmed that Mayangsari had visited the area for meditation purposes.

"Yes, Padepokan Jambe 5 was the special meditation place for Mayangsari," Umar Said said.

When the Post met the gatekeeper of Padepokan Jambe 7, Toto, he confirmed that Soeharto performed his meditation there together with his master, the late Romo Diyat.

"Yes, Romo Diyat built the Padepokan Jambe 7 meditation site in 1979. Until now, it has never been open to the public," said Toto, who lives in a house located behind Padepokan Jambe 7.

Toto said that behind his house, which he inherited from his grandfather, also a gatekeeper, there used to be a helipad.

"Now it is in disrepair as it has not been used for quite some time," he said.

Budi said the local administration would need the participation of investors to develop the two mountain sites into spiritual tourism centers.

Among other things, the roads leading to the two mountains must be resurfaced to attract more visitors, he said./Jp

Integrated spiritual tourism at Mt. Selok, Srandil

Impian Monalisa-A view of Cilacap’s coastline from the top of Mount Selok. (JP/Agus Maryono)

Mount Selok in Karangbenda village, Adipala district, Cilacap regency, Central Java, comprises more then 126 hectares of land and rises 150 meters above sea level.

Located along Cilacap's coastal area, the mountain is a perfect lookout spot to view the waves of the South Sea breaking on the foothills below.

About one kilometer to the east of Mount Selok, stands Mount Srandil. Although the two mountains are relatively of equal height, Mount Srandil comprises less than half the land area that Mount Selok does.

In the past, mounts Selok and Srandil make one tour package that blends the amazing beauty of the mountains and the sea. In addition, these two mountains are also very popular as places for Kejawen (Javanese) spiritual pilgrimage.

Unfortunately, the two mountains are now barren as most of the large trees that were once found there were felled illegally between 1999 and 2000. The mountain areas are no longer green and cool and only a number of caves and graves that the pilgrims hold sacred are left.

Mounts Selok and Srandil have been closed as tourist sites since the year 2000. The Jakarta Post, accompanied by a staff member of the local district government, toured the area to observe the many tourist facilities that had been damaged and neglected.

A number of bathrooms and a prayer house in the location were found in disrepair and looked like ghost houses. The paved road crossing Mount Selok area was also in a very condition.

"Given the present condition, we are trying to change the tourist concept at Mount Selok and Mount Srandil so that the two mountains will be the centers of integrated spiritual tourism," Budi Santoso, the district head of Adipala, told the Post recently.

According to Budi, the local administration could easily develop Islamic, Buddhist, Hindu and Kejawen spiritual tourism at these two mountains.

"Kejawen spiritual tourism has been very popular for a long time. Islamic and Buddhist spiritual tourism is less popular but the potential for such development is great," Budi said.

At the top of Mount Selok, he added, was the grave of Kyai Somalangu, one of the disciples of Prince Diponegoro. This, he said, made it an appropriate place for a Islamic spiritual tour site.

He said former president "Gus Dur" once went on a pilgrimage to the grave. "This is evidence that Kyai Somalangu was not just anybody," Budi said.

Buddhists, he added, could visit Padepokan Biksu, or a Buddhist monk dormitory, which is also located at the top of Mount Selok, about 2 km from the grave of Kyai Somalangu.

Built two years ago, the Buddhist dormitory is frequently visited by people from Cilacap and other surrounding areas.

The gateway leading to Padepokan Jambe 7 at Gunung Selok was inaugurated by former president Soeharto in 1979. It was here Soeharto went to meditate. (JP/Agus Maryono)

At the gateway to Mount Selok, a temple can be found where followers of Hinduism can perform their religious services.

"This mountain area is a center for Kejawan spiritual tourism. The most popular site is Padepokan Jambe 7, which was built by former president Soeharto in 1979. Soeharto often went to meditate there," said Budi.

There was also Padepokan Jambe 5, he said, which Mayangsari, a famous singer from Purwokerto, was also known to visit for meditation.

Since the demise of president Soeharto, Padepokan Jambe 7 had been neglected, Budi said, adding the local administration wished to once again open it up to the public.

Besides Padepokan Jambe 5 and Jambe 7, there are also caves that are popular among pilgrims, especially on certain days such as Kliwon Friday and Kliwon Tuesday, and in the month of Syura on the Javanese calendar.

These caves, or goa, include Goa Rahayu, Goa Naga Raja, Goa Bolong, Goa Paku Waja, Goa Putih, Goa Grujugan, Goa Tikus, Goa Lawa and Goa Kaendran.

Meanwhile, the grave of Kyai Somalangu, which is located on a former Japanese fort, is usually visited by people from Kebumen, Central Java.

The introduction of spiritual tourism in Mount Selok, Budi said, could restore its position as an alternative tourist site.

Karangbenda village head Umar Said, who is also a community elder in the Mount Selok area, confirmed that Mayangsari had visited the area for meditation purposes.

"Yes, Padepokan Jambe 5 was the special meditation place for Mayangsari," Umar Said said.

When the Post met the gatekeeper of Padepokan Jambe 7, Toto, he confirmed that Soeharto performed his meditation there together with his master, the late Romo Diyat.

"Yes, Romo Diyat built the Padepokan Jambe 7 meditation site in 1979. Until now, it has never been open to the public," said Toto, who lives in a house located behind Padepokan Jambe 7.

Toto said that behind his house, which he inherited from his grandfather, also a gatekeeper, there used to be a helipad.

"Now it is in disrepair as it has not been used for quite some time," he said.

Budi said the local administration would need the participation of investors to develop the two mountain sites into spiritual tourism centers.

Among other things, the roads leading to the two mountains must be resurfaced to attract more visitors, he said.

The friendly Sunset Gecko at Gili Meno

Impian Monalisa-The turquoise-colored water on the shore of white sand beach at Gili Meno, backdropped by the vast blue sky. (JP/Prodita Sabarini)

Frolicking on the beach of a small secluded island might be the holiday dream of most work-drenched men and women.

Away from the noisy, clogged and polluted city streets, one can warm their tired feet on sun-baked sand, swim above coral reefs and laze in a bale bengong (stilted open-air wooden hut) with a good book while feeling the delicious sea breeze against their skin. Looking up, instead of a hazy gray sky, one can see the blue of the sky during the day or the twinkling stars at night.

It is definitely my kind of holiday.

So, when I had the chance to escape the capital, I grabbed it and without hesitation I headed to Lombok's Gili Meno.

Some 30 kilometers east of the tourist island of Bali, Gili Meno is the smallest of the three small sand islands northwest of Lombok, in West Nusa Tenggara.

The bigger Gili Trawangan is more famous and has been dubbed the party island by visitors for its lively night life. Gili Air is the biggest and most populated.

All three islands have no motor vehicles roaming the streets. Horse drawn carts called Cidomo and bicycles are the only means of transportation around.

My companion and I took the night flight from Jakarta to Bali on a Friday night and continued to Trawangan on a fast boat, Saturday morning. From there, we hopped on a chartered boat and arrived at Meno around 11 a.m.

A boat towed on the white sand beach shore. (JP/Prodita Sabarini)

When we arrived, little did we know that apart from the expected relaxation time in that tranquil spot, we would be inspired by our environmentally conscious host.

Based on a friend's recommendation, we looked for a place called Sunset Gecko. Our boatman pointed out the resort, which had no signboard but a big, wooden gecko on the wall of the dining place.

Situated on the beach, the resort has a number of small cottages and a main building for dining and the kitchen. The small resort boasts a beautiful garden, with blossoming plants and banana trees. Four comfy bale bengong look over the sea and Gili Trawangan with its tall telecommunications tower.

A Japanese man in his early 40s Hiro Tanaka, who we later found out was the owner of the place, greeted us. After we checked in, we made ourselves comfortable in the shady huts looking out to the sea.

Always intrigued by cool Japanese people, we speculated about Tanaka's story. Looking at the beautiful and tidy resort, I guessed he had a degree in hotel management. My travel partner disagreed, guessing that Tanaka was a well-traveled and highly educated person, who for one reason or another decided to open a resort in a small island in Indonesia.

A two-story wooden house if Sunset Gecko. (JP/Prodita Sabarini)

The latter guess was closer to the truth. In one conversation, I found out that he was one of the few idealists who wanted to save the earth, but was obstructed by the politics of the world.

Tanaka is a businessman who set up an alternative energy conversion company with his business partner in Canada. Their product was a patented pyrolysis machine that can transform plastic waste into its former form: oil.

After two years of lobbying city administrations to use the technology without giving money under table, he decided to quit and start making change on a smaller scale.

He grew up in the arid desert of Quwait, while his father worked for a Japanese oil company, Tanaka says that he always dreamed of having a place to share with people.

Three years ago, with friends from different parts of the world, he opened Sunset Gecko, which adheres to eco-friendly practices.

More than often, tourists looking for unspoiled nature to escape the city's pollution end up damaging the environment of their holiday destination. Beautiful spots in Bali have become testament of this, with overdevelopment resulting in beach erosion.

Stilted open art wooden huts are the perfect spots to enjoy the beach. (JP/Prodita Sabarini)

Tanaka witnessed environmental degradation in Northern Thailand, when six years ago he visited a pristine beach with only two hotels. Three years later, 30 new ones have mushroomed, with mounting piles of garbage.

He says that as he got older he realized that he was part of the problem as he too created garbage. "We always say 'this shouldn't be like this. Oh, you shouldn't burn the plastics' dadadada.

"But when you become an adult, you start to think 'Hey, whose responsibility is this?'. It's easy to say (for an example), *This is the Balinese government's problem'. But then the government doesn't do (anything) and we just keep doing the same troublesome things," he says.

"We just keep messing, creating more garbage, buying chocolate (and throwing away the wrappers), smoking cigarettes and throwing the ash on the street. No, it shouldn't be like this," he says.

So, he opened Sunset Gecko with the hope that he can make a difference.

The resort recycles the water from the dishwashing, laundry, and showers to water the plants. Hiro says that they used a three-step filtration system he learned from reading books and internet sites. He mixed the organic solid residue and organic waste from the kitchen to make compost.

Sunset gecko also makes natural soap in the kitchen. This too he learned from books and the internet. He uses palm and coconut oils for the soap and leaves it to harden as soap bars for six weeks. The soap was one of the highlights of the resort for me. It didn't leave the skin dry and was even great when I used it to wash my hair.

Apparently, the news of the natural soap from Sunset Gecko has traveled around. Two Japanese women that stayed at Gili Trawangan traveled to Gili Meno to purchase the soap.

Tanaka says that it was not for sale as it was for guests to use. Eventually, the women left with two soap bars each.

Blossoming plants next to a wooden hut on the beach. (JP/Prodita Sabarini)

Another impressive part of Gecko was the beautiful garden, with various plants. Hiro says that once local island residents came to the resort and marveled at the banana trees.

"They were really surprised. *A banana tree on the beach? How come?' they asked. I told them that we make compost for the soil and villagers have started to copy that," Tanaka says.

In Gili Meno, where fresh water is shipped from Lombok, eco-friendly practices are not an option. It is a necessity.

While Sunset Gecko is alive and kicking, walking around Gili Meno I found a number of accommodations seemed to be out of business. I passed an abandoned desolate place with an overturned table which seemed to had been a restaurant. Another resort looked closed an empty.

Sunset Gecko has a friendly atmosphere with guests greeting each other and sharing their latest experience in the water. Just dipping to waters in front of the beach of the resort will lead you to nice coral reef and sightings of beautiful sea creatures.

Sea turtles with their ancient look swim around the sea. One guests says that he went snorkeling and saw a Manta ray.

As the sun sets, the sky turns into a purplish color. Guests would hang around the open air dining room with drinks chatting, while sounds of geckos joining the chatter.

As the night grows late, the sight of Trawangan with its colorful lights looked like a big ship. A staff commented that it looked like the Titanic ship.

The best part was lying in a wooden beach chair and looking up to the sky. The stars twinkling and I started to fall asleep. Kontributor- Prodita Sabarini

On the Net:
www.thesunsetgecko.com

Mexico City: chic destination for pocos pesos

Impian MONALISA-A mariachi violinist plays in the -Tenampa bar in Mexico City's Plaza Garibaldi. (AP/Gregory Bull, File)

Move over greasy tacos and tacky trinkets: Mexico City is home to a vast network of chic museums, top-notch restaurants and trendy night clubs. There's even an Icebar.

What's more, the city remains one of the globe's best budget stops.

With just a few pesos - preferably hidden deep inside one's clothing in case of mugging - visitors can view world-renowned art inside centuries-old buildings, wander through Aztec ruins in the heart of the city, and sip tequila at rooftop bars where DJs spin the latest international beats.

And amid the chaos of its more than 20 million people, the western hemisphere's largest city also has plenty of breathing space.

On weekends, you can take free salsa lessons in leafy plazas throughout town. You can try tango classes in the foreigner-friendly La Condesa neighborhood's Parque Espana around midday. You can ride a bike every Sunday to the city's sprawling main plaza, the Zocalo, when Reforma Avenue is shut to traffic.

No bike? No worries - the city will lend you one for free if you leave an ID.

But if the high-altitude, smog-choked air has you huffing and puffing, there are other ways to get around to the plethora of sights.

And despite Mexico City's reputation for crime, your personal safety can be greatly improved by taking a few precautions.

GETTING AROUND: Hop aboard the Turibus, a double-decker bus that give's you a bird's eye view while taking you to all the top attractions for under $12. For less than 20 cents, the subway can't be beat and is relatively safe. During rush hour, women can head to the front for the all-female cars. If you want a taxi, make sure it is from an official stand called a "sitio." (This will keep you from falling prey to criminals who pose as cab drivers, take passengers to ATMs and force them to empty their accounts.)

a tourist rides a double decker Turibus passing the Latin America Tower in downtown Mexico City. (AP/Gregory Bull, File)

MUST-SEES: With dozens of museums, you can easily OD on art in this town. Topping the list are the awe-inspiring murals by Diego Rivera and other Mexican legends in the Palacio de Bellas Artes, which also has temporary contemporary exhibits and a stunning performance called the Ballet Folklorico showcasing the country's traditional dances.

Then walk down Francisco Madero Street to the Zocalo, strolling past the colonial buildings - including a tile-covered 1596 count's mansion. Today the home is a two-story coffee shop and drug store called Sanborns.

Off the Zocalo is the Palacio Nacional, or National Palace, where Rivera painted the entire history of Mexico on its walls. It's free and English-speaking guides are on hand to explain the details of the intricate work. Behind the main courtyard, the cactus and maguey gardens are a great place to take a break. On the other side of the Zocalo is the Metropolitan Cathedral, the oldest in the Americas.

Behind the cathedral, the Centro Cultural de Espana, funded by the Spanish Embassy, has extensive contemporary art exhibits and a rooftop cafe with mouthwatering tapas, most for under $5. On Thursday nights, top DJs spin their tunes.

PREHISPANIC RUINS: The city is teeming with ruins. Archaeologists are still finding the buried treasures under plazas and buildings. One of the best is the Templo Mayor, or Great Temple, a site squashed between businesses and government buildings off the Zocalo. Workers discovered the Aztec religious center in the mid-1970s. The Aztecs are believed to have built the temple in the 1300s. The ruins include a wall of stone skulls representing the human heads the Aztecs used to put on display after sacrificing people to the gods. The entrance fee is less than $3. Better yet, on Sundays the museum is free. If you're still craving more history, hit the National Museum of Anthropology in Chapultepec Park, one of the world's best. Its entrance fee is less than $4.

NEIGHBORHOODS: La Roma and La Condesa are hubs of hipness and worth a day of strolling, stopping for Chiapas-grown coffee and people-watching in one of the funky cafes, or checking out the many art galleries. There are also plenty of boutiques of young designers who mesh colorful embroidered Indian fabrics into chic dresses, skirts and shirts. Start at Galeria OMR off the Rio de Janeiro plaza and wander down Orizaba street to Alvaro Obregon. Then head to Parque Mexico. Check this bilingual list of galleries: http://www.arte-mexico.com/galeries.htm

SURVIVING THE MADNESS: If you're overwhelmed by the earsplitting noise of honking cars and shouting vendors, you can find respite wandering through the 550-acre Chapultepec Park - and the sprawling zoo is free. Or visit the free Jardin Botanico, or Botanical Gardens, of Mexico's National Autonomous University. The cactus-and-maguey-studded gardens are set among lava outcroppings.

NIGHTLIFE: Mama Rumba in La Roma is a sure bet to boogie away the night. On Wednesdays and Thursdays, the $4 cover charge also includes free salsa lessons before 10 p.m. when the live Cuban band kicks in. Traditional cantinas throw in sizable appetizers, almost a meal in themselves, with $3 beers. Try the 1928 Cantina La Guadalupana in Coyoacan, where Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo drank tequila.

For the cutting-edge side of Coyoacan visit La Bipolar. Owned by actor Diego Luna ("Y Tu Mama Tambien"), the bar offers marlin tostadas and walls covered in plastic crates. In Condesa, you can grab a ski jacket and cool down with your tequila-based drink on the ice-made love seats at the Icebar, the latest one to open worldwide.

Lucha Libre, Mexico's masked wresting spectacular, is a must for lovers of kitsch. On Tuesdays, hit the small, traditional Arena Coliseo for the best two-hour show $2.50 can buy, or go for the glitzy televised productions at Arena Mexico, where tickets run between $4 to $13. Be sure to pick up a cheap mask of your favorite hero outside.

BEYOND TACOS: Tacos are amazing here, but so is the vast variety of other kinds of dishes. There's no better place than the capital to get a sampling of Mexico's diverse food. La Tecla in La Roma is one of the most affordable places to try Nouveau Mexican food, such as duck enchiladas with mango sauce. Also don't miss the squash blossoms stuffed with goat cheese and bathed in chipotle sauce. Most meals are under $10.

For amazing corn-flour tamales for breakfast, lunch or late-night munchies try Flor de Lis in La Condesa. Two tamales cost less than $3. They are wrapped in banana leaves and stuffed with chicken or pork with green or red sauce. Other fillings include chicken in mole and poblano chile strips.

If you want to spot a Mexican celebrity but stay on budget, stop by Frutos Prohibidos y Otros Placeres, an outdoor corner cafe with a long list of fresh-fruit smoothies, salads and wraps in La Condesa.

MARKETS: The Ciudadela market in the city's center has the best prices and most variety for traditional crafts. It's open everyday. For more upscale art, try Bazaar Sabado on - you got it, Saturdays - in San Angel.

If you read Spanish, pick up a copy of Chilango or Donde Ir magazines for articles and reviews of the city's happenings. If not, you can probably muddle through Tiempo Libre, which lists restaurants, movies, plays and other events.

The Cornish Coast Path: On foot through 'Britain's Bali'

Impian Monalisa-Boats in the harbor at the busy fishing port at Newlyn, with Penzance in the background (JP/Tim Hannigan)

From the top of the rocky headland, wild coastline opened in both directions. To the east, we could see the way we had come, craggy buttresses of dark stone towering above foaming water.

Inland there were rugged granite hills and small hamlets among stone-walled fields. To the west, a sweep of heather-cloaked cliffs ran out to a distant promontory marked with a bone-white lighthouse. And a hundred meters below, shifting and surging, cobalt-blue in the autumn sunlight, was the Atlantic Ocean. For the next three days that ocean would always be there to our right, as we made our way on foot along the edge of the westerly tip of the United Kingdom.

The county Cornwall is Britain's answer to Bali. Forming a narrowing peninsula at the southwest corner of the country, it is home to traditional fishing villages, fashionable resorts and some of the best beaches in Europe. There is a thriving arts community and a buzzing surf scene, and above all, like Bali, there is something unique about Cornwall that sets it apart from the rest of the country.

Around the entire 500 kilometer length of the Cornish coastline runs a narrow path, one of the most prized long-distance walking trails in Britain. With three days to spare, two of my friends and I had decided to tackle the most challenging section: the 67 kilometers between St Ives and Penzance.

St Ives, where we started our journey, is a striking little town: a jumbled mass of whitewashed houses on a narrow isthmus below a rocky headland. With the sea on three sides, a fringe of golden beaches and an atmosphere more Mediterranean than British, it's easy to understand why it is such a popular tourist destination. But despite its scattering of surfers, this is Cornwall's version of Ubud rather than Kuta.

St Ives is a renowned center for the arts. In the first half of the 20th century the famously sharp oceanic light began to attract painters to what was then a small fishing community. Today the narrow alleys of the town are lined with galleries.

Relics of the past on a rugged coastline

The first day's walking was by far the toughest. Sometimes the path bent through chaotic fields of boulders; sometimes it dropped through steep switchbacks to sea level, or climbed sharply to high promontories above dizzying chasms. But the views, changing at each new headland, were spectacular.

There were no villages on this remote shoreline, but in the distant past people did live here. At the headland of Gurnard's Head it was possible to make out the ramparts of an Iron Age cliff fortress. The whole of this western part of Cornwall is riddled with ancient remains. There are forts and ruined villages dating back two millennia. Still more intriguing are the sacred sites: upright stones in mysterious alignments and huge mushroom-shaped chamber tombs, some more than 4,000 years old.

Cornwall forms part of Britain's "Celtic Fringe", a wild extremity that, along with Wales and Scotland, was less influenced by the successive waves of invasion and migration that created the English people and the English language. On this granite peninsula older traditions and a distinctive culture endured. Well into the 18th century, many people spoke Cornish rather than English, and echoes of this Celtic language remain in the place names of the county.

With their ancient past and unique traditions, many Cornish people are at pains to point out their difference from the "foreigners", the English beyond the county's border. Here you'll see the black and white Cornish flag far more often than that of England or Britain, and there are occasional calls for political autonomy or even independence.

The granite was glowing copper-colored from the falling sun when we picked our way down a steep hillside to the perfect little beach at Portheras. Short waves were slapping onto the shore, and a few late-season sunbathers were making the most of the weather.

This secluded cove marked the end of the wildest stretch of the coast path, and also marked a sudden shift from the prehistoric to a more recent past. Beyond here the cliffs were bare and scarred, and the skyline was a Gothic silhouette of ruins.

In the 19th century, Cornwall found great wealth from tin mining. Shafts were sunken along the fractured shorelines to get at the valuable ore. But during the 20th century, tin prices fell and opencast mines in South America came to dominate. Geevor, the last mine on this coast, closed in 1990, and now there are only the ruins -- and lingering poverty in old mining communities to recall the industrial past.

We shambled through this strange landscape in the dusty evening sunlight, and branched away from the path at the village of Bottalack, the end of our first day's walking. We had covered more than 25 kilometers.

Beautiful beaches, traditional food

After a night's rest we continued westward, passing more stark relics of the tin mining age. The ruins were older here and already the gorse and heather was beginning to consume them, softening the industrial scars and returning the land to nature.

At the headland of Cape Cornwall, the coast turned southward and a great sweep of shoreline opened ahead of us. Here the path ran between lichen-covered outcrops and a foreshore of sea-smoothed boulders. At midday we reached the mile-long beach at Sennen. This was a surfers' shore backed by granite cliffs rather than the palm trees of Kuta. The water was crowded with wetsuit-clad figures waiting for waves at a low-tide sandbank.

We stopped for lunch in the little village at the head of the beach and, as we were in Cornwall, lunch could only be a pasty. The county is known for its seafood and traditional sweets, but by far the most famous Cornish dish is the pasty. These baked pastry parcels of meat and vegetables originated as a portable meal that miners and fishermen could carry to work. Today they make a hearty lunch for hungry hikers.

Bellies full, we pressed on and within half an hour we were at the key point of our journey. Land's End, marred by an ill-considered collection of gift shops on an otherwise unspoiled coastline, is the most westerly point of mainland Britain, standing kneedeep in the turbulent Atlantic.

Beyond Land's End the landscape changed again to one of rolling heath. Hidden sandy coves were crooked at the mouths of shallow valleys, and we could see boats slugging through the running swell for the offshore fishing grounds. With the sun falling behind us we reached Porthcurno.

Porthcurno must be one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. A wide bay backed with honey-colored granite holds an expanse of vivid turquoise water over banks of the finest shell sand. It was at this stunning spot that we spent the night.

Easier walking on the final day

The sky was overcast and the sea was the color of quicksilver in the morning as we shouldered our backpacks for the final 12 kilometers to Penzance. We passed the hamlet of Penberth with its thatched cottages and fleet of traditional fishing boats moored on a cobbled slipway and continued, struggling up the hillsides with aching legs.

Sometimes we passed through unexpected stands of woodland; at other times cultivated fields with thick hedgerows ran right down to the shoreline. This was a gentle coastline compared with the bare-boned wilderness of the previous days; it was a softer place to walk with blisters and tired limbs. It was early afternoon when the path emerged on a narrow lane that led us into Mousehole.

Mousehole -- pronounced Mowzel -- was another of those Cornish fishing villages with a harbor and crooked alleyways that seem to belong more to the Mediterranean than to the UK. It was busy with holidaymakers snapping photos and licking ice creams. We shambled through the crowds, sunburned, sweat-stained, mud-splattered and grinning: We were almost within reach of our goal.

Here the path joined the road, but not relishing the idea of slogging along tarmac, we chose to pick our way along the foreshore, scrambling over slippery black rocks. Just beyond Mousehole a sweeping view opened ahead of us. This was Mount's Bay, named for the fantastical castle-topped outcrop that stands at its center.

Almost too tired to speak, but very happy after our three-day odyssey along a spectacularly varied coastline, we slouched through the final kilometers. There was a hint of clammy dampness in the air, and ahead, the church spires and dignified Georgian terraces of Penzance, the town at the end of our route, showed in the cooling haze. Beyond it we could pick out more cliffs and white villages, and the line of the coast where the path continued eastward.

It was a tantalizing prospect, but for us, with blistered feet and the short holiday over, it would have to wait for another day.

Travel Tips

Transport
It's a long way from London, Britain's main international gateway, to Cornwall, but there are regular direct trains to Penzance. The journey takes around five hours. Local trains to St Ives run along a remarkably beautiful branch line, clinging to the coast.

Long-distance coaches link major Cornish towns with London, Bristol and other cities, and there are regular local buses throughout the county.

There is an airport at Newquay, the county's biggest resort, where the surf and parties are very much Cornwall's answer to Kuta, Bali. There are flights to London and Manchester daily.

Accommodation

Cornwall has accommodation for every budget and taste, though it is worth remembering that much of it is seasonal, closing during the quiet winter months.

St Ives, Penzance and other coastal towns have a wide selection of hotels and guesthouses. The Abbey Hotel in Penzance is a fashionable boutique hotel while Penzance Backpackers is a hostel at the other end of the price spectrum. The Porthminster is one of St Ives' biggest hotels, and there is also a backpackers in the town.

There is "bed and breakfast" accommodation in family guesthouses in many villages, sometimes signposted from the coast path, and there are also seasonal campsites. Camping is officially forbidden on many sections of the path, but in practice no one checks, and there are some wonderfully remote little corners for a low-key night under the stars.

Walking the coast path

St Ives to Penzance is just one section of the Southwest Coast Path, a route that runs from Minehead to Poole, a distance of more than 1,000 kilometers. Plenty of information can be found at the official www.southwestcoastpath.com website.

Along the route of the path you are never more than a few kilometers from human habitation, but the going can be tough and there are no facilities outside of the towns and villages. It is essential to carry plenty of food and water, and to remember that what looks like a few easy kilometers on the map is probably many hours of hard walking.

Guided tours of the coast path are available, but given the ease of navigating, they are not really necessary. However, a popular option, offered by companies such as www.trek-inn.com, is to have your luggage transferred to prebooked accommodation at the end of your day's walking.

Greater Phoenix Golf

Troon North Golf Club Impian Monalisa-For many, golf is integral to the Greater Phoenix experience. Shrouded by mountains on three sides and covered by a canopy of near-perpetual blue sky, Phoenix and its neighboring communities are home to more than 200 spectacular golf courses. Many of these courses have been designed by legends of the game such as Robert Trent Jones, Jack Nicklaus and Arnold Palmer. Whether you want to enjoy a laid-back round at a municipal facility or test your skills on a championship layout, you’ll find a course that matches your style and budget in Greater Phoenix. Some courses occupy Sonoran Desert canyons where civilization feels a world away, while others are part of opulent resorts where golfers can indulge themselves with a post-round spa treatment. Whatever course you play—target, parkland or oasis—you can expect find the fairways green and the pro shop bustling all year ’round, even in the dead of winter, thanks to our 330-plus days of annual sunshine. Greater Phoenix reservation services and golf schools can assist you in creating the perfect day on the links. Breathtaking scenery. Unmatched variety. Wonderful weather. Is it any wonder the National Golf Foundation dubbed Greater Phoenix the “Golf Capital of the World".

Phoenix on a budget: New rail line, hikes, golf

Impian Monalisa-In Phoenix, there's nothing a trip to the golf course can't fix. It's a warm winter escape for those who can afford a second home, and it basks in the spa-facial glow of being a place where people will pay a lot for five-star fun.

But for those with shallow pockets, the Valley of the Sun has budget-friendly options mixing an urban identity with access to nature. It's not every big city where you can scale a mountain, sample authentic Mexican food and take in a free art show - all in one day.

A Metro light rail train pulls into downtown Phoenix for the first time during a test of the new regional commuter rail system in Phoenix. (AP/Ross D. Franklin, File)

TRANSPORTATION: Phoenix's $1.4 billion Metro Light Rail debuts Dec. 27. The 20-mile line will stretch from northwest Phoenix to neighboring Tempe and Mesa. The train will be free for the first two days. The grand opening will have music, activities and exhibits at stops along the track, http://www.valleymetro.org/metro-light-rail/ .

In chichi Scottsdale, take advantage of the free trolley. The purple street car runs every 10 minutes, from Oldtown Scottsdale, brimming with local eateries, bars and shops selling Native American arts and crafts, to the art galleries lining Main Street. The free Scottsdale Art Walk is every Thursday evening, http://www.scottsdalegalleries.com/ .

The trolley also stops by the waterfront, where restaurants and shops line the canal, http://www.scottsdaleaz.gov/trolley/downtown.asp .

A rental car may be your best bet for metropolitan Phoenix and day trips. The city's streets are laid out like a grid, making it hard to get lost.

TAKE A HIKE: Hiking in Arizona is fun even in winter. Piestewa Peak, formerly Squaw Peak, at 2,608 feet tall, offers miles of trails inside Phoenix Mountains Park and Recreation area.

Camelback Mountain. (AP/Matt York, File)

More adventurous hikers can scale Camelback Mountain's sandstone hump. At 2,704 feet, Camelback's two main summit trails amount to a 1,200-foot gain in elevation, with less arduous trails near the base.

For easy strolls or mountain bike rides, head to Papago Park, where there's little elevation amid the woods, desert sandstone and fields, http://phoenix.gov/PARKS/hikemain.html .

Sedona and its red mountain majesties are a two-hour drive north. Take a hike and survey the grandiosity of the red rock formations at the hilltop Chapel of the Holy Cross, an aesthetic marvel. Parking is free; the view is priceless, http://www.chapeloftheholycross.com

Halfway between Sedona and Phoenix lies the city of Prescott. The folksy downtown, anchored by the historic Courthouse Plaza, has a warm small-town ambiance. Restaurants, boutiques and live music are abundant. But the Old West heritage is still very much alive. Stroll Whiskey Row, a block once full of nothing but saloons. Have a drink at The Palace Restaurant and Saloon, whose past patrons include Wyatt Earp and Doc Holliday. Venture farther out to Prescott National Forest, which has five lakes and more than 450 miles of trails for hiking, horseback riding or mountain biking, http://www.visit-prescott.com/

GOLF: Home to 200 golf courses, many of them PGA-champion caliber, metro Phoenix has long been a luxury golf destination. But there are bargain rates too. For the winter, the city's eight municipal courses charge between $34 and $43 for 18 holes. Fees slide to $18-$25 if you tee off after 1 p.m. At Palo Verde Golf Course, nine holes cost just $10.

Each course has a unique layout. For first-time visitors, head to Aguila Golf Course at the base of South Mountain, with lovely vistas of the Sonoran desert. Book tee times at least a week before, http://phoenix.gov/golf .

If conventional golf isn't your thing, try flicking a flying disc at a disc golf course fitted with "tee boxes" and baskets mounted on poles. If you're new to the game, stop by Spinners on the Green, a disc golf equipment and apparel store in Scottsdale, for help, http://www.spinnersdiscgolf.com/index.html . Spinners also rents bikes, $10 an hour.

There are two disc golf locations in Phoenix and Scottsdale, the latter located along a 25-mile multi-use path known as the Indian Bend Wash.

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT: Artists, musicians and vendors take over downtown Phoenix streets for an artwalk the first Friday of each month, http://www.artlinkphoenix.com/alp/ . Visit galleries or shop for everything from jewelry to decorated cigar boxes.

For more highbrow art, check out the Phoenix Art Museum, free on Tuesdays, 3-9 p.m. and during First Fridays, 6-10 p.m., http://www.phxart.org/ . Current exhibitions include 54 drawings by artist Elihu Vedder and the fashion evolution of the jumpsuit.

The Phoenix Desert Botanical Garden, teeming with desert plants, is hosting Dale Chihuly's "The Nature of Glass" through May 31. Chihuly's dazzling glass sculptures have been installed throughout the garden, even hanging from the roof. Admission is $15 (students, $7.50 with ID; $5 ages 3-12). Reservations at 480-481-8188 or http://www.dbg.org/index.php/chihuly .

The Arizona Mining and Mineral Museum, 1502 W. Washington St., has a small building but a big collection of more than 3,000 rocks, fossils and minerals, including an 8-foot hunk of copper, lunar rocks from the first Moon landing and precious gems and minerals local to Arizona. Admission is $2 (free ages 17 and under), http://www.admmr.state.az.us/General/museum.html .

HOLIDAY HAPPENINGS: Chances for a white Christmas in Phoenix are slim to none, but there are other holiday scenes. APS, the state's largest utility, puts on its annual Electric Light Parade Dec. 6 for thousands of spectators, http://phoenix.gov/parks/fiparade.html .

Glendale, the suburb west of Phoenix that played host to the Super Bowl last February, is operating Glendale Glitters until Jan. 17, illuminating downtown with 1.5 million lights for 12 blocks. Free parking and free admission, http://www.glendaleglitters.com/ .

Glendale also is the backdrop for the U.S. Bank of Arizona Celebration of Lights, a two-mile route with 300 animated light displays set to music, until Jan. 4. Admission is $12 per car, http://www.arizonacelebrationoflights.com/ . Donate three canned food items or a new unwrapped toy, get $2 off.

Just north of Phoenix, the town of Carefree, with street names like Ho Hum Road and Easy Street, is planning a Currier & Ives-style Christmas Festival, its first, Dec. 12-14, complete with town crier, carolers, horse carriage rides, roasted chestnuts and hot chocolate. The entire town center will be blanketed in fake snow; http://www.carefreechristmasfestival.com/ .

In Scottsdale, McCormick-Stillman Railroad Park displays 100,000 lights, Dec. 12-Jan. 3. Tracks go for one mile; ride admission is $2.

CHEAP CHOW: Mexican immigrants have brought culinary gems to north Phoenix's Sunnyslope neighborhood, also known as "Little Oaxaca." At Los Reyes de la Torta, 9230 N. 7th St., good luck scarfing down an entire torta. The choices for these Mexican sandwiches vary, with the most voluminous being the Del Rey - ham, breaded beef, sausage, refried beans, eggs, melted cheese, avocado, tomato, onion and jalapenos stuffed between a crisp, white roll. Wash it down with an agua fresca (strawberry, mango, watermelon, pineapple or cinnamon-flavored horchata).

On the opposite side of town, lunch can be crowded at Carolina's Mexican Food, 1202 E. Mohave St. Carolina Valenzuela has been serving up handmade tortillas since 1968. Many in central Phoenix say the prices and quality are worth the drive, http://www.carolinasmex.com .

Matt's Big Breakfast, 801 N. First St., is a beloved downtown staple. The owners boast big portions, local organic ingredients, waffles made from scratch and the Chop and Chick (two eggs and a skillet-seared pork chop), plus sandwiches and salads. The line of waiting customers outside the small red brick building sometimes starts before 7 a.m.

Lost in medina antiquity

A road leading to Bou Said Village, a Impian Monalisa-famous hill-top tourist destination near Tunis. All homes are blazing white and decorated with intense blue on the windows, doors, verandahs and balconies. (JP/Pandaya)

Three-hour's bus journey from Tunis to heartland in the south of Tunisia took us to Kairouan, a town built in 670 AD which was the center of country until the 12th century.

Kairouan prides itself as an education and cultural center, but what makes the town special is that it was the first place Islam took off in Tunisia.

The city's founders had learned from the doomed city of Carthage on the northern coast, that seaside cities were vulnerable to invasions from the Mediterranean sea. So Kairouan was built further inland, some 50 kilometers from the coast.

We explored Kairouan's world-famous medina (non-European part of a north African city), where Islam first came to Tunisia and spread into northern Africa.

In the medina and in much of Kairouan, everything looks ancient: the buildings, the souk (Northern Africa or Middle Eastern market), the alleys and the culture.

Kairouan is reputed as the forth holy city in Islam -- alongside Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem. Locals say if you go to Kairouan seven times, it is equivalent to making a haj pilgrimage to Mecca. My God! I still have another six visits to go!

Unlike in the modern Tunis, which is very much a "European" city, Kairouan apparently lacks symbols of modernity.

The most important attraction in the Kairouan medina is the vast Sidi Oqba -- the Grand Mosque named after an Arab general who founded Kairouan -- and, of course, the colorful souk. In this quarter you can find anything from locally made carpets and tapestry to silverware.

A minaret in Tunis medina, which boasts numerous mosques and souks (marketplaces) in a vast complex with a seemingly endless network of alleyways running through it. (JP/Pandaya)

The massive but plain grand mosque is illuminated with intricate chandeliers which give it a sacred atmosphere. Visitors can take a peek inside but are forbidden from going past a velvet rope.

A curious attraction is Bir Barauta, an enclosed fountain where a blindfolded camel drives a water wheel. The camel at work is a must see (pun unintended). Can you imagine coming all the way to Tunisia without touching a camel?

Legend has it that this well communicates with the Zemzem spring in Mecca. Ah, and don't forget to drink a mug of fresh water that the big gentle animal draws from the well. Who knows, your wish may be granted.

The overly pushy traders (who can also be found in such places as Kuta Beach and Borobudur, Indonesia) are often annoying. Some will insist on taking you to their tapis (carpet) factory, saying "no problem if you don't buy".

The tourist guide also claims the more complex medina of Tunis is a must see -- a claim I found was fair enough on my visit there the following day.

From the moment I set foot in the medina of Tunis, I was overwhelmed with the sights and sounds of this ancient city: old-fashioned palaces, undulating chants of prayer calls, the mosques, strong smells emanating from spice shops -- and those colorful doors.

Friendly traders in the souk make you fell at home, smiling and guessing your nationality with their knowledge of foreign words, like "konnichiwa" or "nihao?" if you look East Asian. If you are white, they will address you in French, or in English if you don't react ... and then in German if you still look baffled.

I got a warm hug (or two) for being Indonesian, a nation with whom they have a high regard for some reason -- probably history and the countries' shared main religion.

Visitors who venture without guides can easily become lost in the Tunis medina's seemingly endless narrow twisting alleyways -- while blissfully unaware because there is so much to see, especially for those interested in cultural heritage. This eclectic area was the core of 7th-century Tunis, whose sturdy old-fashioned walls are reminiscent of the Yogyakarta Tamansari complex.

The Tunis medina lures tourists as a place which has retained its ancient cultural diversity -- and yet still functioning as a bustling commercial center. While the rest of Tunis, like other big cities around the world, are crowded with modern western-style shopping malls, one can still find artisans at work in its medina, and they aren't just there to entertain tourists -- their wares are for sale. These artisans make everything on site, from leather goods to silver lamps, using traditional techniques and tools.

Here, too, are well-preserved symbols of early Islamic splendor, including the awesome Zitouna Grand Mosque (also known as Mosque of the Olive) smaller mosques (all with towering minarets), the Kasbah and the citadel. And madrasah Islamic schools have been here since the medina was founded.

Tunis's most important building, Zitouna, is honored as it once housed notable scientists who taught there, such as Ali Ibn Ziyad (in the 8th century) and Imam Ibn Arafa (in the 14th century). Rebuilt in 1894, Zitouna stands out with its 44-meter-tall minaret.

The narrow intertwining alleyways are lined with covered shops selling various wares -- all manufactured by local artisans -- including fabrics, carpets, silver lamps, jewelry, leather cowboy hats and perfume. And what is great about shopping in the souk is that visitors can test their haggling prowess.

Merchants are generally friendly. They will laugh merrily if you haggle too low and patiently ask you to raise your price.

The medina is also home to numerous marvelous palaces including the 18th century Dar Hussein with its beautiful courtyard and the Bardo Palace with treasures from the antiquity.

On exiting the ancient quarter from the eastern main gate, one arrives on De France Avenue feeling like a character out of Back to the Future (after traveling through time). Just outside the medina is the modern European-style city that was built by the French who arrived in Tunisia in 1881.

Not surprisingly, within this perimeter, all Tunisia's roads bear French names. A walking distance from the Avenue De France is Avenue Habib Bourguiba, Tunis's main thoroughfare linking the Old City with the Little Sea.

The Avenue Habib Bourguiba area is a neatly designed new town for government offices, embassies, hotels, theaters and spacious leafy parks. Somewhat out of place in this Islamic country is Cathedral St. Vincent de Paul which was built by the French in 1882 (just one year after their arrival, suggesting their intention of staying). Locals love to say that all but foreign nationals are Muslim.

A stroll down the avenue will give you a glimpse of Tunisia's diverse cultures. The wide sidewalks are bustling with French-style cafes, but only a few of them serve wine or beer. These places are hangout places for townsfolk, who spend hours sipping coffee and shooting the breeze with buddies there.

A cup of coffee costs around 3 Tunisian dinar, or about US$2. Often, townsfolk share a drink with friends as a token of friendship.

Another place not to be missed in Tunisia is the blue-and-white village of Sidi Bou Said. 12 kilometers from Tunis, this lovely village is perched on the cliffs overlooking the Bay of Tunis.

The beautiful Sidi Bou Said attracts tourists, who appreciate its landscape, as well as super-wealthy Tunisians who reside or build holiday houses in this affluent suburb -- which is not far from Carthage, the famed ruins of a Phoenician city.

As the bus climbs past Carthage, visitors get a glimpse of the wide blue bay below. The marina is awesome with its white sails of boats arriving and departing.

Sidi Bou Said village originally grew serving Muslims who were making their pilgrimage to the tomb of the 13th century sufi, Sidi Bou Said.

In this leafy tourist haven, the dominant whites and blues simmer under the Mediterranean sun when viewed from afar. Visitors are quickly bewildered in its labyrinth of narrow roads with breathtaking flowery gardens and upscale mansions.

Every building bears the village's signature colors: bright white walls and staircases, and everything else in vivid blue. Larger doors are painted yellow, white or red.

Sidi Bou Said has, since the 19th century, been attracting painters from European countries to visit, or even to build their studios there. Painter Soro Lo Turco of Italy has a studio and gallery here. Such great artists as Colette, Simone de Beauvoir and Andr* Gide are several others who have fallen under its spell.

Jordan lures eco-tourists with waterfalls, canyons

Impian Monalisa-Mujib Mountains rising behind the Dana reserve in southern Jordan. (AP/Nader Daoud, File)

A trek uphill from Jordan's scorching Dead Sea shore through the towering sandstone walls of the Mujib gorge leaves you with a pulse-racing way to get back down — strap into a harness and rappel down a waterfall into a sparkling river.

Jordan, home of the ancient red-rock city of Petra, is reaching beyond its considerable historical and Biblical tourist attractions to try to capture a stake in the growing outdoor adventure and eco-tourism market.

Besides the Mujib gorge — which has the distinction of being the lowest elevation nature reserve in the world — Jordan is marketing places like the wooded highlands and rocky slopes of the Dana Reserve in the country's south. Visitors there take in views of massive domelike clusters of red-beige rock and — with luck — might catch a glimpse of the shy mountain ibex before settling in for the night at a camp site, rustic guesthouse or the reserve's candlelit eco-lodge.

The desert kingdom's effort to lure eco-tourists — 66,000 came last year among a total of 3.4 million tourists — seeks to reap the benefits of four decades of pioneering wildlife and nature conservation.

Environmentalists supported by then-ruler King Hussein founded The Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature in 1966 at a time when war with Israel, not ecological conservation, dominated most Arab agendas.

"The area was in turmoil," said the society's director, Yehya Khaled. "The following year we had a war between the Arabs and Israel."

Since then, the non-governmental organization has led environmental education programs, set a national environmental strategy and established and maintained eight nature reserves so far.

Other countries in the Middle East are following Jordan's lead.

In the United Arab Emirates, for example, Dubai's dune-rippled Desert Conservation Reserve was recognized in November as a protected area by the International Union for Conservation of Nature, thanks in part to its sustainable tourism program and its re-introduction of Arabian oryx and gazelles.

Among the region's more far-flung places, Yemen's island of Socotra is also drawing determined eco-tourists and has been compared to the Galapagos because of its hundreds of species of plants and animals that are found nowhere else on earth.

Jordan, for its part, has even dispatched its cause-crusading Queen Rania, known for her activism on issues like poverty and education, to boost eco-tourism numbers. She promoted the country's natural heritage recently at a Conde Nast travel forum in New York.

"If you want adventure, you can abseil (rope) down waterfalls, paraglide off sandstone crags, navigate Red Sea reefs, then cook supper deep in the desert sands of Wadi Rum," she told an audience of hundreds of travel industry leaders.

Such exhilaration can be had along one of the trails through the Mujib gorge. From the edge of the Dead Sea, it winds up through hills and descends to the Mujib river via a rope rappel down a 65-foot waterfall. Along the way, you can stop and cool off in natural pools.

The country's reserves are also great places to spot wildlife. Jordan's conservation efforts included the 1978 reintroduction of the once nearly extinct Arabian oryx, an elegant white antelope native to the Arabian Peninsula.

wild flowers in front of tents at the Dana reserve in southern Jordan. (AP/Nader Daoud, File)

The Dana Reserve is home to the Syrian wolf and other endangered animals, as well as 700 plant species, including Jordan's rare national flower, the black iris, and 215 kinds of birds. You might even cross paths with a horned ibex.

In establishing the reserve in the 1990s, Jordan also resurrected the fortunes of a dying Bedouin village there, providing residents with jobs helping run the reserve.

With Dana and the other reserves, The Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature also helps market and sell hand-crafted silver jewelry, organic jams and olive oil produced by the local communities through its Wild Jordan division.

Officials at Dana also took into account the area's broader environmental problems, including by setting up a sustainable grazing program for Bedouin goat herders.

"We're ahead of the entire Mideast region. We've introduced integrating biodiversity conservation with sustainable community and socio-economic development," conservation society director Khaled said.

The conservation society, which is looking to establish nine more reserves, hopes eco-tourism will serve as the main source of income for the work.

Dana is the country's largest reserve, covering some 190 square miles.

It is a place of startling variety.

Lush mountains as high as 4,900 feet descend to open woodlands of juniper and oak. And farther down sits scrubland and sandy desert below sea level.

"Your walk may start in snow and after four hours you'll only need a T-shirt. You're still in Dana, but it feels like a different country," said local guide Tayseer al-Qtashat.

The reserve has 11 walks ranging from a gentle one-hour jaunt to a more invigorating 10-hour trek that demands some climbing and swimming.

Dana and three other natural sites in Jordan — the Azraq Wetlands, Mujib and Wadi Rum — are soon to be added to UNESCO's World Heritage List, which already includes other Jordanian favorites such as Petra, Qasayr Amra and Umm Rasas.

American tourist Daniel Dyer, from New Jersey, has visited several of Jordan's nature reserves and said he plans to keep coming back, especially to Dana.

"There is drama here. Such natural beauty is exceptional," Dyer said. "I'd have to agree with Queen Noor who called the views here nothing less than '10-star.'"

Philly race car museum is pit stop for auto fans

Impian Monalisa-The radical shark-like front end of a 1966 Ford GT40 MKII protrudes from a line of race cars photographed at the Simeone Foundation Automotive Museum in Philadelphia. (AP/Tom Mihalek)

For more than 20 years, Fred Simeone kept his priceless collection of vintage racing cars in a nondescript garage downtown. He'd give private tours to other car collectors and enthusiasts, but the automotive gems remained largely hidden from public view.

Not any more. Simeone now has a museum for his more than 60 rare racers, which span the 20th century and include models by Alfa Romeo, Aston Martin, Bugatti, Stutz and Hudson.

The cars run from big, boxy antiques to sexy, streamlined sportsters and include winners of prestigious races at Nurburgring, Le Mans and Sebring.

"We have a few real Mona Lisas in here," Simeone said.

Tucked away in a former engine manufacturing plant in an industrial corner of Philadelphia, the Simeone Foundation Automotive Museum opened in June and had its formal dedication in November.

The cavernous facility showcases cars in huge dioramas, from a three-dimensional Italian village to a tableau of the Bonneville Salt Flats. Within each setting, the cars are arranged in chronological order to convey what Simeone said is the message behind the metal: how vehicles are improved by the spirit of competition.

An exhibit on Le Mans, a 24-hour endurance race, starts with the 1933 Alfa Romeo 8C2300 Le Mans — a high-riding, rectangular vehicle that to the modern eye looks more lumbering than aerodynamic. It ends with the 1970 Porsche 917LH, a low-slung, sleek and curvy racer with a bubble-like cockpit.

"It's designed to show how we are all compelled to compete and, in the process of competing, we evolve," Simeone said.

Simeone, 72, got the car collecting bug from his dad. It has taken him to places like Argentina, where in the 1970s he tracked down a 1937 Alfa Romeo 2900A that had placed second in the 1937 Mille Miglia, an Italian road race. It was sitting in a shed owned by the son of a man who had raced it in the 1950s.

Simeone's collection had been garaged in the residential Washington Square West section of the city since 1982. It was publicized in car club journals, but Simeone had limited spare time to give private tours because of his job as chief of neurosurgery at Pennsylvania Hospital. He retired in April.

Simeone had always planned on a public display when he had the time and when he felt the collection was "complete." Now, he compares his museum with the nearby Barnes Foundation in that both represent the singular vision of a collector.

Albert Barnes was an eccentric pharmaceutical magnate who collected a trove of work by artists including Matisse, Renoir and Cezanne that is now worth billions. He hung the paintings in an unorthodox way — close together and grouped with objects like metal hinges and wrought ironwork to illustrate common aesthetic themes.

Similarly, Simeone tells the story of auto racing his way, from the 1909 American Underslung to the 2002 NASCAR Dyno Mule. He groups most cars by race course and year to show the evolution of the winning vehicle. He designed the dioramas himself.

And, like Barnes, who bought art when it was affordable, Simeone said his collection was only possible because he started early.

Buying these cars in today's market "would be totally out of my league," Simeone said. "But if you purchased them 30 years ago, it was doable."

Kirk F. White, a race car enthusiast and former dealer, said Simeone's collection is special because of its integrity.

"He has impeccable taste and he will only buy the very best cars with the purist pedigrees," said White, who has known Simeone for about 40 years. "He really, by and large, likes them to be original, just the way they ran in the day."

Buz McKim, the historian at the NASCAR Hall of Fame under construction in Charlotte, N.C., has not seen Simeone's cars in person but was impressed by what he saw on the museum's Web site. He said it's not hard to understand the attraction of such a collection.

"Everybody, way down deep inside — whether they want to admit it or not — thinks that they can drive race cars," McKim said.

At the museum's dedication a few weeks ago, Simeone gave retired auto racing champion Mario Andretti a guided tour before honoring him with the first "Spirit of Competition" award.

The tour included a sporty, bright red 1975 Alfa Romeo 33-TT-12 parked next to a black 1926 Bugatti Type 35, which comparatively looks like a glorified buggy. Both had raced in the Targa Florio, a course through the hills of Sicily.

When asked if he had any favorites, Andretti noted the Alfa Romeo, which he had once driven to victory in the Monza race. But then he reconsidered.

"Any of the cars that I ever won with are my favorite," Andretti said.

Baku: An exciting place to explore

Impian Monalisa-Are you looking for a new exotic place to explore? Do you want to see features of both Asian and European cultures in one city? Do you want to see a city where Muslims, Jews and Christians live in harmony? Then Azerbaijan's capital Baku -- the pearl of the Caspian Sea -- is the place for you.

Azerbaijan, a small but oil-rich country in the South Caucasus, is the new kid on the block of the world tourism industry.

More than 90 percent of its population is Shiite Muslim. It is not, however, an orthodox country. It has one of the most modern, secular, liberal, tolerant and open societies in the Islamic world.

"We had a very difficult period of being unknown in the world tourism market due to the situation in Nagorno-Karabakh," Azerbaijan's Minister of Culture and Tourism, Abulfas Qarayev, told The Jakarta Post recently.

Nagorno-Karabakh, an Azerbaijan territory, was seized by Armenian troops in a 1990s war.

Azerbaijan's beauty, richness, culture and ultimately its geostrategic position -- a juncture on the Great Silk Road, between the Mediterranean, Caspian, Black and Azov seas -- has attracted various tribes, travelers, invaders, traders and missionaries throughout history. More recent patrons include oil companies and even film director Michael Apted, who shot parts of the 1999 Bond film The World is not Enough here.

In this former Soviet Union state of 8.7 million people, Baku has everything.

"It was a surprise for me. Baku looks like more an European city than an Asian one," Laura Shuurmans, a Jakarta-based free-lance writer, said recently.

A city rich in culture and history, Baku has unique and varied architecture -- ranging from grand mansions with Roman and Gothic themes to a walled old city complete with cobbled streets, narrow alleys, ancient buildings and interesting historical places.

As in any other ancient city, the best and easiest way is to explore Baku is on foot. While in Baku, there is one place you will go to, more than once. In Baku all roads lead to Fountain Square. If it is dining and shopping you're after, or simply looking to meet up with friends and enjoy the night life, head to Fountain Square. It's the most popular place in the city for locals and visitors alike.

Built in the 1860s by the famous Azerbaijani architect Hajibababeyov (1811-1874), Fountain Square is home to numerous Western-style shops, restaurants, cafes and bars. Here you can find street hawkers and a playground for children: It's the spot to hang out. It's on Sunday evenings however, that the square really comes alive. A parade of beautiful Azeri girls hit the town and everybody wants to be there.

Baku or Baki (which means a city of winds in the Azeri language) is in fact comprised of three cities -- the old town (Cheri Shekher), the boom town and the Soviet-built town.

Tourists will find the walled old town, a world heritage site, the most interesting as all the major attractions of Baku are found here.

Baku's landmark Maiden's Tower, a key shapped medieval tower, stands tall on the shore of Caspian Sea. The tower is a place worth seeing in Baku city. (JP/Veeramalla Ajaiah)

Every city has its landmark and for Baku it's Maiden's Tower, a medieval tower with a strange keyhole shape. Built as a guard tower and observatory in 12th century, Maiden's Tower or Kiz Kulesi is worth seeing. There are many stories to explain how it was named, the most accepted being that a maiden committed suicide by jumping from the top. Local people told us that distressed people still sometimes repeat maiden's act.

A set of stairs will take you to the top of the tower, which, at a height of more than 30 meters will provide good exercise. From the top you will find the best view of Baku and the Caspian Sea.

But beware of the biting wind, which comes rolling off the rough Caspian Sea and sweeps through the city's streets.

The Shirvanshah's Palace, a 15th century royal palace, is a must see tourist site in Baku. (JP/Veeramalla Ajaiah)

Another of Baku's historical attractions is the Shirvanshah's Palace, a 15th century royal palace with a mosque, minaret and mausoleum.

On our way to Shirvanshah's Palace, there were numerous tempting artisan and carpet shops. But prices of these items are as high as the Maiden's Tower. Don't worry thought, if you have a local guide or bargaining skills developed from years of shopping at Tanah Abang market, the prices will come down by more than half.

It is easy to loose your way in the labyrinthine old city. But not to worry, just hail a cab and ask to go to the usual place: Fountain Square. The most surprising thing was that even the locals sometimes get lost. This is because Baku is changing very fast, due to the oil boom. Many Azeris, however, point out that they are not part of the boom.

The rapid influx of oil dollars means that the whole city looks as if it is in a beauty parlor. Multistory buildings are being constructed, old buildings and roads are undergoing renovations -- all over the city.

In the evening, one should not miss beautiful Boulevard. Running parallel to Baku's sea front, Azeri people enjoy leisurely strolls here. The 100-year-old Boulevard, now a national park, is also a popular spot for young lovers. The streets, decorated with lights, add to the ambiance.

Baku is also home to numerous museums. My favorite was the State Museum of Azerbaijani Carpets and Decorative Applied Arts (formerly the Lenin Museum), which has a very rich collection of centuries-old colorful carpets. The Azerbaijan State Museum of Art, State History Museum, Museum of Independence and the Museum of Musical Culture of Azerbaijan are also worth a visit.

The city also has a vibrant nightlife -- you can find music ranging from disco and jazz to operas and classical Azeri dances. One can even enjoy belly dancing at one of the caravansarai's (ancient inn) in the old town.

A picturesque view of Baku Bay. Baku city has been undergoing a complete modernization, thanks to its oil boom. (JP/Veeramalla Anjaiah)

On the outskirts of the city, you can explore not only numerous beaches, but also places like Gobustan, where 12,000-year-old rock carvings are preserved, and Ateshgah -- a Zoroastrian fire temple built in the 18th century.

Near Baku, the most interesting place in Azerbaijan is Oil Rocks, a town on the Caspian Sea. Built during the Soviet era, Oil Rocks has 200 kilometers of streets built on a former landfill. It is here that several scenes of The World is not Enough were shot. Further away from Baku you will find tourist places like Sheki, Ganja and Guba.

The most interesting part of the experience is the great Azeri cuisine, which is similar to Turkish food. Lamb kebabs, dolmas, caviar, yogurt soups, salads, bread, pillav and tomatoes, as well as many fresh fruits, will make your mouth water.

Baku and Azerbaijan in general are blessed with so many qualities that will provide fond memories for tourists. But it is above all, their warmness, generosity and hospitality that Azeri people are well known for. Last year around 1.3 million tourists visited Azerbaijan, a veritable leap from the 44,934 who came in 1995.

Baku has all the ingredients, and has invested billions of oil dollars, to ensure its spot as a popular international destination in the years to come. It might just be that one has to hurry up to see the original Baku, before it turns into a new star in global tourism industry.

Travel tips

Getting there: The United Arab Emirates' Emirates airlines flies daily from Jakarta to Dubai. From Dubai Azerbaijan Airlines (AZAL) flies to Baku six times in a week and from Baku to Dubai seven times a week. A two-way ticket may cost approximately US$1,800.

What to see

Fountain Square, Maiden's Tower, Shirvanshah's Palace, Old town (Cheri Shekher), Gobustan, Ateshgah fire temple, State Art Gallery, State Museum of Azerbaijani Carpets and Decorative Applied Arts, Boulevard, Oil Rocks in Baku and surrounding areas

Where to stay

Hyatt Regency, Holiday Inn, Absheron Hotel, Caspian Palace, and Radisson SAS Plaza and numerous budget hotels

Where to eat and what to eat

Karavanserai: An underground restaurant in the midst of walled city. The food is traditional Azeri with lots of lamb and Caspian fish. There are also regular Azeri music, magic shows and belly dance.
Yacht Restaurant: This yacht-shaped expensive restaurant on Caspian Sea offers delicious Azeri food and drinks.

Currency

One can bring in unlimited foreign currency to Baku with proper declaration. But you can't take Azeri currency manats out of the country. Azeri manat might be stronger than U.S. dollar but it is not accepted outside Azerbaijan. All manats must be exchanged before we leave Baku.